Glycolic acid is a widely used ingredient in skincare, often formulated into toners, moisturizers, and peels. As an alpha hydroxy acid (also known as alpha-hydroxy acid), it helps exfoliate dead skin cells, improving skin texture and radiance. Derived from citrus fruits and with a low molecular weight, it penetrates deeply into the layer of skin, making it an effective chemical exfoliant and a common ingredient in glycolic acid products. But how does it perform across different skin types and what should users consider to avoid skin irritation?

How glycolic acid works

The action of glycolic acid lies in disrupting corneocyte cohesion, which facilitates cell turnover and the removal of dead skin. It stimulates collagen production, enhancing skin elasticity and reducing signs of skin aging. Glycolic acid chemical peels and topical low-strength glycolic acid products are often recommended for photoaged skin, photodamaged skin, post-acne scars, and atrophic acne scars. It is used in both superficial glycolic acid treatments and serial glycolic acid peels, alongside other hydroxy acids like salicylic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, and aspartic acid.

Benefits for certain skin types

Oily skin, combination skin, acne-prone skin, and those with bumpy skin or uneven skin tone can see the benefits of glycolic acid through improved appearance of skin texture and fewer breakouts. Its ability to treat mild acne and moderate acne, as well as its role in the treatment of melasma and dark spots, is well documented in Dermatol Surg, Clin Dermatol, and Arch Dermatol. Studies on Indian patients and Asian women have shown positive effects on dark patches and hyperpigmentation in skin types IV to VI. Glycolic acid toners can help with radiant skin appearance and support regular skin care regimens.

Considerations for sensitive and dry skin

Sensitive skin and dry skin are more prone to adverse effects such as burning, peeling, and prolonged redness. Patch testing is strongly advised, especially for sensitive skin types and darker skin types. The acid concentration should start low, and application should avoid the eye contour area. Gentler exfoliants like mandelic acid or lactic acid may be more suitable for these users. For those using acid toner formulations, especially acid toner safe or acid toner vegan products, it’s best to monitor for skin sensitivity.

Safe usage guidelines

• Use glycolic acid products with a concentration around 5–10%, gradually increasing based on tolerance.
• Apply only at night and limit sun exposure; always use protective clothing and sunscreen during the day.
• Start by using a cotton pad to apply a topical product to a small area of facial skin.
• Avoid combining with strong actives like retinol treatment crème or acid with retinol unless guided by a professional.
• Combine with hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, and calming ingredients like Tasmanian Pepperberry Derivative and Panax Ginseng Root Extract.

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